Good Indonesian Food | Toko Binatu “An”

December 7, 2015 In Classic By Fari Febrian

Toko Binatu “An”

“As more people came for their version of the favourite Indonesian dish instead, they decided to shut down the laundry and focus more on dealing in Otak-Otak – and later on, Es Kopyor – but the name stuck.”

Out of all the scores of venues that hawk Es Kopyor (Iced Kopyor Coconut) and Otak-Otak (grilled fish cake) in Jakarta, Toko Binatu “An” has got to be on the top five of many a Jakartan’s list of places to head over to. Found in Central Jakarta on Jalan AM Sangaji, Toko Binatu “An” has been operating since 1958 and it also has another outlet in the western part of town.

But wait. There’s something peculiar about its name. The word “Binatu” actually means “laundry” in Bahasa Indonesia. So is it a laundry or an Es Kopyor/Otak-Otak joint? Well, there’s always a story behind every name, and for Toko Binatu “An”, it stemmed from the early days of the business, when its main trade was in fact laundry service. Selling Otak-Otak was initially merely something that they did on the side. As more people came for their version of the favourite Indonesian dish instead, they decided to shut down the laundry and focus more on dealing in Otak-Otak – and later on, Es Kopyor – but the name stuck.

With my curiosity piqued, I went to Toko Binatu “An” to have a look-see myself. Housed inside a medium-sized shop, its appearance drew similarities to your common roadside joints. It can be easily found due to the hoarding on top of the building.

The moment I sat my weary bottom on one of the venue’s chairs, a plate of Otak-Otak was immediately placed on my table. I went straight in, and found that it was still warm. Its texture was very tender, while no hint of fishiness could be detected at all by my sensory receptors. I ordered a glass of Es Kopyor to wash down the Otak-Otak in my mouth. Refreshing.

I also managed to get my hands – and taste buds – on another famous dish that this shop has to offer: Rujak Juhi. For those not in the know, Rujak Juhi is a traditional Betawi treat that is getting harder to obtain these days. Comprising noodles, slices of cucumber, and juhi (a type of squid) with peanut sauce, this was the first time I’ve ever eaten one. It was so good, I basically fell in love with it. One of the employees there told me that Rujak Juhi is actually not part of its menu – it is sold by another person who’s been selling it since 1980 in front of Toko Binatu “An”. He also informed of the ownership situation of the shop. “Indra, the son of founder Murniyati, now runs the business, while the Otak-Otak is prepared by her grandson, Andre,” she says.