“The Ayam Pelalah combines both coconut milk and chilli, and it was very spicy; just the way I like my food.”

On my second day in Lombok, I made my way to Pasar Kopang. The sun hadn’t even risen yet, but I had to force my eyes open to savour Nasi Campur Kopang. My driver parked the car a kilometre away from the market, from which I had to take a cidomo (a horse-drawn cart). By the time we got there, the market was already teeming with customers and sellers. Inside the market is Bu Nur Sah, who sells Kopang’s classic mixed rice. She doesn’t remember the exact date she started her business, but she guaranteed me that it has been more than 30 years. There was a row of large aluminium bowls filled with various dishes that she prepared beforehand at 4am. Some of them include Sayur Nangka (jackfruit in coconut milk), Ayam Pelalah (Lombok’s signature spicy chicken), and Gulai Sapi (beef in coconut milk). They were a tad heavy for breakfast, but I assumed that that’s how the people of Kopang like to begin their day with. With no tables and chairs in sight, customers are only able to order their food to-go. I opted to select all the dishes available, along with a serving of rice. When it came time to sample my Nasi Campur Kopang, I was grinning from ear to ear. Everything was so flavourful. The Ayam Pelalah combines both coconut milk and chilli, and it was very spicy; just the way I like my food. I found the gravy from the Gulai Sapi a bit creamy, but it was very rich in spices. The must-have item out of all, though, is the Sayur Nangka, which lent a savoury flavour to the proceedings. Bu Nur Sah’s stall is open every day in Pasar Kopang, and from Monday to Saturday, it can be found in the eastern part of the market. On Sundays, she would move to the back of the market, so you might need to ask around in order to locate her.

By Jessicha Valentina

Pasar Kopang
Jl. Raya Kopang, Lombok Tengah
West Nusa Tenggara
Open daily from 7am-12pm
Rp.25,000/US$1.80